The quality of embroidery and thickness of the raffel determines the price. By 1850 and 1860, the export of shawls to Europe increased many folds, but this expansion was a prelude to the sudden collapse of the industry. Pashmina Fabric. Chain Stitch and Crewel Furnishings of Kashmir. Arabic format is adopted as a writing script. Another type of needle embroidery is popularly known as Papier Mache work because of the design and the style in which it is executed. Availability: Only One in stock. Pashmina wool However, besides at least three different grades of Papier` Mache, some are actually cardboard or wood! It had an aim of preserving and promoting the art and craft of the people of Gangtok. What different types of cashmere fabric are there? The shawls made from such fine yarn are extremely expensive. Kani shawl is another type of Kashmir shawl originating from the Kanihama area of Kashmir. Although, Kashmiri people live in different parts of India they are mainly gathered in the Valley of Kashmir, Doda, Kishtwar and Ramban thasils of J… Handicrafts form a prominent section of the multifarious and appealing range of crafts in Rajasthan, the state that is the epitome of Indian culture, tradition, royalty. The first mention of an Indian woollen shawl being worn in Europe is in one of Lawrence Sternes Letters to Eliza (1767). Three important factors led to this collapse: firstly, Kashmir shawls could no longer compete in quality with the best Paisley and Lyons shawls. In fact, one of the methods to test whether a shawl is an original Kashmir kani is to check from its back whether it has been woven in separate pieces or is in a single piece. Pure Gold leaf, which has the unmistakable luster, is far more expensive than bronze dust or gold poster paint. Silk usually have cotton base. Kashmir still produces many beautiful textiles, though most now have a uniformity of style that inevitably comes with catering to the mass market. High in the plateau of Tibet and the eastern part of Ladakh, at an altitude of above 5,000 meters, roam Pantholops Hodgosoni or Tibetan antelope. Woven in the twill-tapestry technique, the weft threads of these shawls alone form the pattern. Embroidered using a hook ("aari") and woolen yarns, crewel fabrics are made in cotton, silk organza, velvet, linen and jute fabrics. Pashmina (also known as Pashm) is a fine cashmere wool, coming from Kashmir in India and some parts of Nepal. It is available by the length occasionally as ready to wear garments. Chain Stitch and Crewel FurnishingsBecause of the high quality of embroidery done on wall hangings and rugs, Kashmir is in great demand all over the world. These shawls have come to be known as Kalu shawls though they are woven all over the Himachal region. Ain-e-Akbari written during the time of Akbar, mentions them. There is today, however, output which has vivacity and individuality and matches masterful techniques with the beauty of classical design. The weaving of kani loom-woven pashmina shawls has been revived at the ancient weaving centre of Basohli in Jammu Province, but nearly all the Kashmir shawls made today are patterned by embroidery rather than by weaving. The embroiders, originally, were called rafugars or darners. It is rich in artistic appeal and has an aesthetically crafted charisma. The all-over patterns worked with delicate fill-in stitches are produced even today and can stand well against the finest products of the world. Thus, expensive Kashmir shawls were both priced out of the market and had lost the cachet and exclusivity of high fashion. When the pounding has not been thorough, the finish is less smooth. The majority is made out of a yarn called raffal, introduced at the beginning of the twentieth century, which is spun out of merino wool. Its motifs are well-known flower design finely worked in concentric rings of chain stitch. 2. They were then worth their weight in gold. Darjeeling tea was the first product that got a GI tag in India in 2004–05. Cashmere wool. The state of Jammu and Kashmir comprises of Jammu Province, the Vale of Kashmir and Ladakh. Otherwise the only difference is in the price, cardboard being cheaper than Papier Mache. Sometimes when the base is silk, the cost increases proportionately. Basically, the more knots per square inch, the greater its value and durability. Cl.8: BO5D 1/00, DO4H, DO6L 3/00, DO6L 1/06, DO6L 1/14, DO6L 1/00, DO6P, B65H, F26B 13/00, DO1B 3/00, DO1B 5/00 Kashmir, the paradise on earth is known all over the Comes with matching pants but no stole. Sweet Thyme Garden Fabric ~ Kashmir Gardens Collection by Sarah Campbell from Michael Miller Fabrics, 100% Cotton SassyandChicFabrics. As patterns were dictated from Europe, there was a two-year gap between the design being sent out to Kashmir, and the return of the finished product, so that the latest shawls were already outmoded by the time they arrived. Indeed, Samba is reputed to have been a centre of textile production long before many other famous Indian textile towns. During grazing, a few strands of the downy hair from the throat are shed and it is these, which are painstakingly collected until there are enough for a shawl. Motifs, usually abstract designs or stylized paisleys and flowers are worked in one or two, occasionally three colors, all subdued. Its price varies with the percentage of wool. There are three fibers from which the Kashmiri shawls are made- wool, Pashmina and shahtoosh. Only the needle workers were able to salvage something by turning to the embroidery of coverlets, tablecloths and other domestic items for the home and tourist market. As with the weaving, embroidery is a male profession. Carpets are said to have originated from the oases and villages of Central Asia . The traditional folklore of Kashmir is the Chakkirwhich is sung by a chorus of singers led by the lead singer. People in Ladakh perform their own traditional … Shop online for Kashmir products on Kashmirvilla like Kashmiri embroidered shawls, Pherans, Phirans, pashmina shawls, Cotton and Woolen suits, dry fruits, saffron, garlic, pulses, spices and many more products. Tiny stitches are used to cover the entire area. Kashmirs relative geographical isolation ensured that a concentration of skilled workers could be built up and maintained. Kashmir has been famous for kani shawls for many centuries. Silks and TweedsSericulture and tweed weaving are more important industries in Kashmir, with departments of the State government closely monitoring the process. One set of weavers would produce the borders, another would prepare different sections of the cross border, and yet another set would prepare section of the central portion; these were then carefully matched and stitched together by the rafugar. This is done either in broad panels or either side of the breadth of a shawl, or covering the entire surface of a stole. Yarn is spun either from shahtoosh alone, or with pashmina, bringing down the cost somewhat. Only if one watches the manufacture of carpets, one can realise the amount of skill involved in its making. Your interests ... Caribbean-Blue Traditional Woolen Stole from Kashmir with Hand-Embroidered Paisleys and Flowers. In the case of pure shahtoosh too, there are many qualities-the yarn can be spun so skillfully as to resemble a strand of silk. All the embroidery is executed on white cotton fabric, pre-shrunk by the manufacturers. They can only be loosely woven and are too flimsy for embroidery to be done on them. religious articles and product discounts. A Geographical Indication (GI) is a name or sign used on certain unique products which corresponds to a specific geographical location or origin (e.g. Carpet weaving in Kashmir was not originally indigenous but is thought to have come in by way of Persia. To the north of Jammu lies the Pir Panjal range of mountains, which separate the beautiful wooded and fertile vale of Kashmir from the rest of India. The colorful felt motifs are inspired from their ancestors from Iran and are seamlessly layered with the base without a stitch. The technique used earlier was similar to the tapestry technique, which had non-continuous weft threads and is different from the ones used today. You may also use our services for duplicating your favorite embroideries. Crewel fabrics are used for drapery and upholstery - made into curtains and used to cover chairs, etc. The hook is referred to as ari, Hook work covers a much larger area than needle work in the same amount of time. These hand felted carpets from Kashmir are a heirloom tradition of 500 yrs. Jammu Province is bounded by the Ravi River to the east and the Jhelum to the west, and is bisected by the Chenab. In the Ain-i-Akbari, the annals of the reign of the Mughal emperor Akbar (ruled 1556-1605), revealed that his wardrobes were full of shawls. Did you know that not just the outfits, but even the fabric used to make them are unique to each state of India? There are two grades of pashmina. Geographical Indication (GI) Label on Kashmir Pashmina is a US patent stamp on the original ‘Kashmir Pashmina’ fabric or its products and is known as the G.I Mark. NamdasFar less expensive are these colorful floor coverings made from woolen and cotton fiber, manually pressed into shape. Unlike woolen or Pashmina shawls, Shahtoosh is seldom dyed-that would be rather like dyeing gold! The yarn used normally is silk, wool or silk and wool. The color-way of Carpet, and its details differentiate it from any other carpet. Price: $315.00 Shipping Free - 4 to 6 days. On a visit to Kashmir you … As the Kashmir is going through one of the worst period since its existence due to ongoing turmoil the centuries old handicraft industry has gone down to the bottom. Cardboard, usually indistinguishable from Papier Mache, gives slightly when pressed firmly. The land of Kashmir etched its beautiful essence in the form of Kashida embroidery into the fashion world way back in the Mughal period which was patronized by the emperors and the royals of that era. In contrast, the language used in Azad Kashmir is Pahari, since this part of Kashmir usually includes hills and mountainous areas. The beautiful Vale of Kashmir is justly famed for its textiles, above all for the Kashmiri shawl. Every product is 100% hand-spun, Handwoven Luxurious product using centuries old traditional processes(woven on Traditional looms NOT on Hand-loom). An Armenian named Khwaja Yusuf, who visited Kashmir in 1803 as a buying agent for a Constantinople firm, introduced the concept of the amli, or needlework shawl, which would imitate the loom-woven shawl but would be much less expensive to produce and would escape the government duties levied on loom woven shawls. Crewel fabrics have excellent light-blocking capability making them a good … Kashmiri carpets are hand made and they are always knotted, never tufted. With government help encouraging a more scientific breeding policy, yields are improving, and the nomadic owners of the goats are also receiving a much better price for the pashmina, which should further improve production. The wearing of genuine Kashmir shawls and their European replicas was highly fashionable; the colourful patterned borders of these shawls set off the plain textures of the classically inspired garments then in vogue. 5 out of 5 stars (13,310) $ 3.45. Thirdly, Paisley and other imitation shawls were now cheap and plentiful, and much more likely to be worn by a working girl than by a member of the leisured classes. Sholapitha is the craft of West Bengal where flowers and other variety of articles are made from shola. The classical Kashmir shawl was woven out of Pashmina wool, whose main source was the fleece of a central Asian species of mountain goat, the Capra Hicus. The right side of it cannot be easily distinguished from the wrong side. The talim indicate the color and the number of warp threads to be covered. They vary in artistry and the choices of colors, and it is not difficult to tell a mediocre piece from an excellent one. Pashmina is unmistakable for its softness. Its position from the trade routes of Tibet and from Turkestan gave it virtually exclusive use of the raw materials needed for shawls and roads west to Afghanistan and Persia and south to India gave it access to markets for its textile products. Till now around 365 products have been added to the GI list. Chain stitch embroidery in woolen and cotton thread is worked on these rugs. Later cheaper imitations of these shawls were woven in England and France, thereby ruining the market for the original handwork of Kashmir. Crewel is basically similar to chain stitch. Also, variations in language are observed as you move in various areas of Kashmir, i.e. The ari work is used to decorate clothing, wall hangings, rugs, cushion covers and whole rolls of furnishing fabric, with varying complexity of design. Kashmiri embroidery, popularly known as Kashida,along with the Kashmiri carpet industry, is one of the biggest commercial crafts of India. 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